The morning light comes through the window like it knows I'm leaving. It's that golden, end-of-summer quality that makes everything feel like a postcard. I'm in Balatonfüred for one more day, and the lake is already sparkling out there, daring me to waste it. No chance. Today is going to be a proper last day. I pull on my swim shorts, grab a towel, and head straight for the water.
The beach at Kisfaludy is already busy at eight in the morning. Not crazy busy, not yet, but the good spots are taken. Families are setting up umbrellas, and a few early swimmers are already out in the lake. The water is perfect. I mean, really perfect. It's been warming up all summer, and this late-August stretch is when Lake Balaton is at its absolute best. I wade in slowly, then dive under. The cool water rushes over me, and for a second, everything is quiet. This is the Hungarian Sea, and it's magnificent.
After my swim, I grab a coffee and a pastry from Loom Café & Co. on the promenade. It's a little spot, just the kind of place for a morning pick-me-up. I sit outside, watching the boats bob in the marina. There's always something happening here. I pay about 1,500 forints for the coffee and pastry, which is probably five dollars or so. Not bad for a seat with a view. I check my phone, and there are a few messages about the Wine Weeks, which is still going strong. Tonight is my last chance to enjoy it.
But first, I want to see a bit more of the town. I've spent so much time on the lakeshore, I feel like I've neglected the old streets. So I wander up to Jókai Mór utca and Blaha Lujza utca. This is the cobblestoned old town, a world away from the beach bustle. The Round Church is there, the Kerektemplom, looking solid and ancient. I pass the Mór Jókai Memorial House, the summer villa where the great novelist wrote some of his best work. I pop in for a quick look. Jókai was a giant of Hungarian literature, and seeing his desk, his personal effects, it's like stepping back into the nineteenth century. A quiet, thoughtful hour.
From the old town, I wander towards Arács. It's a more residential area, quieter, more real. There's a little market there, Arácsi utca, where local farmers sell their produce. I pick up a few apricots and a small bottle of honey for the road. It's a different kind of souvenir than the usual fridge magnet. The honey is from a local beekeeper, and you can taste the Balaton hills in it. I pay about 2,000 forints, and honestly, it's worth every fillér.
Lunch is a simple affair. I find a casual place near the market and get a bowl of babgulyás, bean goulash. It's hearty, filling, and the perfect fuel for a busy afternoon. The cost? About 2,900 forints, which is around eight dollars. It's a classic, a working-class meal, and it reminds me that there's much more to Hungarian food than just the fancy restaurant stuff.
The afternoon is reserved for the lake again. I head to the Esterházy beach, which is a bit further along the shore. It's a good place to just lie in the sun and do absolutely nothing. I read a bit of my book, watch the sailboats, and take a few more dips in the water. The air is warm, the light breeze is just right, and I'm trying to soak it all in. This might be my last lake swim of the trip, so I'm savoring every stroke.
There's a lot of talk around the beach today about the recent rescue. Apparently, a few days ago, a non-swimmer on a pedal boat jumped into the deep water and panicked, dragging others down with him. The lifeguards pulled them all out, but it was a close call. It's a good reminder. Lake Balaton is beautiful, but it's a real body of water. You have to respect it. Stick to the designated beaches, watch the buoys, and be careful if you're not a strong swimmer. It seems obvious, but this week proved it's worth saying.
Later in the afternoon, I make my way back towards the Eszterházy beach area, past the State Hospital of Cardiology. It's a huge complex, and it's the reason this town became a spa resort in the first place. People have been coming here for their health for over two centuries. I think about that as I walk. This isn't just a party town; it's a place of healing, too.
I arrive at the Vaszary Gallery, which is housed in a beautiful historic villa. They have an exhibition of modern Hungarian art that I've been meaning to see. It's a good way to spend an air-conditioned hour in the afternoon heat. The gallery itself is as much a work of art as anything inside it. After the art, I take a slow walk down Kossuth Lajos utca, the elegant villa row, admiring the grand old architecture. I'm told a lot of these places are being renovated, turning into boutique hotels and guesthouses, but the old-world charm is still very much alive.
As the sun begins to lower, the town takes on a different energy. The Wine Weeks is calling. I make my way back to the Tagore Promenade, which is now in full festival mode. Twenty-one wineries have set up stalls, and there are hundreds of wines to sample. The air is thick with the smell of grapes and good food. I start with a dry Olaszrizling from a local producer. There's nothing like sipping a crisp white wine while watching the sun go down over the lake.
I buy myself a glass of something a little more interesting, a Kéknyelű, which is a rare grape variety you only really find in this area. It's a slightly fuller white, with a bit more body. I chat with the winemaker for a bit, who tells me about the challenges of the season, the drought and the water levels. They say it's affecting the vines, but what they've managed to produce is still lovely. The glass sets me back about 1,800 forints.
For dinner, I want something proper. I've had pike-perch, fogas, a few times already, but it's just so good here. Tonight, I decide to be a bit spontaneous, and I end up at DOCK Bistro, which has a great view of the marina. They do a fantastic version of it, pan-fried, simple, with just some lemon and butter. With a side of rice, it's the perfect lakeside meal. The total for dinner, with a glass of wine, is around 8,000 forints. It's a splurge, but this is my last night, and the food is worth it.
After dinner, I take one last, slow walk along the Tagore Promenade. The festival lights are strung through the plane trees, the water is shimmering, and the sound of laughter and music fills the air. I stop by the statue of the fisherman and the ferryman, and watch the ferries go back and forth to Tihany in the dusk. It's a busy crossing, folks heading over for an evening exploring the abbey or the village. There's a certain magic to this place in the evening. The day-trippers are gone, and you're left with the real rhythm of the lake town.
I'm staying at the Postel Balatonfüred, a smaller, modern place, a short walk from the lake. It's about 25,000 forints a night, which feels reasonable for a summer weekend in high season. The room is comfortable, but honestly, I've barely spent any time in it. Tonight, though, I'm going to sleep with the window open, listening to the last of the cicadas and the gentle lapping of the water. Tomorrow, it's back to Budapest for State Foundation Day. The big one, August 20th. Fireworks over the Duna, the whole city out on the streets.
As I stand in the doorway of my room, I turn back for one more look at the lake. It's nearly dark now, but the lights from the promenade reflect on the water. This place has been a revelation. It's not just a beach resort; it's a town with a soul. A hospital, a literary history, a wine country, and a sea. I've swum in it, sailed on it, and eaten its fish. I feel like I've only just scratched the surface.
The window is open, the curtain moves slightly in the breeze. I think about the next few days in Budapest, about the crowds and the celebrations for the state foundation. But for now, it's just me, the lake, and the calm. It's a good feeling. And everything I've talked about today, the beaches, the restaurants, the wine festival, and where to find it all, will be in the episode notes. Köszönöm, Balatonfüred. It's been a good week.
The last sound I hear before I drift off is a boat horn from the harbor, low and distant. It's a sound that feels like goodbye, but also like a promise to return. I'm just glad I got to spend this time on the Hungarian Sea.