The drizzle this morning is that same ghost of a thing, a fine mist that clings to the cobblestones of La Candelaria. But today, the mist feels different. Today, it's the calm before the storm. Tomorrow is the Battle of Boyacá, the day Colombia remembers the fight that sealed its independence. And I'm sitting in a tiny café near the Chorro de Quevedo, nursing a tinto, watching the city wake up. I've got a list of things to do before I can hit the road north, and it starts with a coffee that costs about 2,000 pesos, less than a dollar, and tastes like the city's heartbeat.
First thing on the list is the bank. I still haven't managed to open a proper account. My cédula de extranjería is still being processed, and without that plastic card, most banks in Bogotá just shake their heads. I'm told the process takes about ten days, and I'm on day six. But I'm not waiting around. I've been living on my Nequi and Daviplata digital wallets, which just needed my passport and a local SIM card. They're brilliantly simple, and they're insured by FOGAFÍN, so my money is safe. But for rent, for a car, for a proper life here, I need a real bank account.
So I'm heading to a Banco de Bogotá branch in Chapinero, the one near the Centro Comercial Niza. I've heard they're used to dealing with foreigners, and I've got all my paperwork in a folder: passport, visa stamp, proof of address from my landlord in La Candelaria, even a letter from my freelance clients. I'm hoping that's enough to get me a 'cuenta de ahorros'. The branch is buzzing. People are queuing up, most of them here to sort out their own holiday finances before tomorrow. I take a ticket, find a seat, and watch the tellers move with practiced efficiency. The whole city feels like it's holding its breath for the long weekend.
Twenty minutes later, I'm at the counter. The woman is kind but firm. She looks at my cédula application receipt and shakes her head. 'Necesitas la cédula física,' she says. The physical card. Without it, no account. But then she smiles and slides a pamphlet across the counter. 'You can try a digital account with us,' she says. 'Or you can wait until your card arrives. It's worth the wait.' I nod, thank her, and walk out into the damp air. The bank lobby has a specific sound, a low hum of conversations and the whirr of the ticket machine. It's the sound of bureaucracy, and I'm learning to dance to its tune.
But I'm not discouraged. I've got a plan B. I'm heading to the Festival de Verano. The whole month of August, Bogotá is celebrating its 488th anniversary with concerts, sports, and events all over the city. I'm told there's a taekwondo competition at the Palacio de los Deportes, and I've seen flyers for free concerts at Parque Simón Bolívar. And the Belleza Mineral emerald fair in La Candelaria has been a hit all week, with gem-cutting demos and seven guest countries. I decide to spend the afternoon soaking up the festival spirit before I pack for my journey. I take the TransMilenio, tapping my TuLlave card, which costs about 2,950 pesos per ride. The bus is packed, but the energy is electric.
I get off at the Avenida Jiménez station and walk towards the Plaza de Bolívar. The square is framed by the Catedral Primada and the Capitolio Nacional, and it's buzzing with locals and visitors alike. Street vendors are selling everything from arepas to obleas, those giant wafers with arequipe that cost about 2,000 pesos. I buy one and eat it while watching a group of dancers in colourful costumes practising for tomorrow's parade. The atmosphere is a mix of pride and celebration. This is where Colombia's independence story began, and tomorrow, the whole country will remember the final, decisive battle.
I wander into the Gold Museum for one last visit. I've been before, but the Muisca Raft always pulls me back. It's the heart of the El Dorado legend, a small golden model of a raft carrying a chief and his attendants, surrounded by offerings. It's a reminder that this land was rich long before the Spanish arrived, and that the story of Colombia is layered, complex, and full of gold and tragedy. The entry is about 5,000 pesos, and it's worth every peso. The museum's quiet halls offer a moment of calm away from the festival frenzy, and I let the history wash over me.
From there, I hop back on the TransMilenio and head to Usaquén. It's a former colonial village in the north, and on Sundays it hosts the famous Mercado de las Pulgas flea market. But today is Thursday, and the plaza is quieter, more intimate. I find a small café, Azahar Coffee Parque 93, and order a pour-over. The coffee culture here is serious, and a specialty cup can set you back around 10,000 pesos, but it's a ritual. I sit by the window, watching the rain start to fall, and I pull out my map of Boyacá. Tomorrow, I'll take a bus to Tunja, then make my way to the Puente de Boyacá, the bridge where the battle was fought and won in 1819.
I've been planning this trip for days. The Battle of Boyacá was the moment Simón Bolívar's army surprised the Spanish royalists and secured the independence of New Granada. It's a big deal, a national holiday. I'm told the Puente de Boyacá gets crowded with families, military parades, and politicians giving speeches. But I want to be there, to feel the history in my bones. I've also got a list of towns to explore: Villa de Leyva with its cobblestone plaza, Barichara with its white-washed streets, and the Chicamocha Canyon further north. But that's for the next episodes. For now, I just need to pack my bags and catch an early bus.
Back in my La Candelaria flat, I lay out my clothes. The weather in Boyacá will be cooler, so I dig out my layers. I check my Nequi balance, and I'm relieved to see I'm still within my budget. A corrientazo lunch at a local eatery costs around 12,000 pesos, about three dollars, and it's the best deal in the city. I've been eating like a queen on a budget. Tonight, I decide to splurge on a proper dinner at La Puerta Falsa, a famous spot near the Plaza de Bolívar that serves traditional Colombian dishes. It's been around for centuries, and their ajiaco is legendary. A bowl will cost between 25,000 and 40,000 pesos, and it's the perfect way to say goodbye to Bogotá's food scene for a few days.
The restaurant is bustling. I squeeze into a small table and order the ajiaco, a thick chicken and potato soup with capers, avocado, and a mound of cream. It's the ultimate comfort food, exactly what I need before a week of road travel. I also order a plate of empanadas, those fried corn pockets with aji sauce, for about 3,000 pesos each. As I eat, I watch the other diners, a mix of tourists and locals, all getting an early start on the holiday. The sound of the restaurant is warm and chaotic, a symphony of clinking glasses and laughter.
After dinner, I take a walk through the Candelaria. The streets are quieter now, and the colonial architecture looks magical under the streetlights. I pass the Chorro de Quevedo, the spot where the city was founded in 1538. It's a small plaza, tucked away, and tonight it's empty. I pause for a moment, thinking about all the layers of history in this country. The Muisca, the Spanish, the struggle for independence, and now, me, a podcaster from somewhere else, trying to understand it all. I feel a sense of anticipation. Tomorrow, I'll step into that history.
As I head back to my flat, I stop at a small tienda to pick up some water and snacks for the bus ride. The owner, an older man with a kind face, wishes me a happy Battle of Boyacá and tells me to be careful on the road. I pay for my things, about 10,000 pesos for a bottle of water and some fruit, and promise him I will. I walk up the stairs to my apartment, the key turning in the lock with a familiar click. The room is still a bit musty from the rain, but it feels like mine.
I sit at my little desk, my notebook open, planning the next few days. I've got a bus ticket to Tunja booked for 7am. I've heard that the roads can be busy with holiday traffic, so I'll get there early. I've also got a reservation at a small guesthouse near the Puente de Boyacá. I'm told it's a modest place, but it's within walking distance of the monument. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the weather holds. The mountains around Boyacá are beautiful in the summer, but they can be moody.
I review my finances one more time. This trip north is costing me more than I expected, but the bus fare is manageable, about 25,000 pesos for the two-hour ride. The guesthouse is around 60,000 pesos a night, which is reasonable. I've been tracking every peso since I landed, and it helps to see it on paper. I'm also proud of myself for sticking to the budget I set back home. Colombia is affordable if you're smart about it. But I'm also learning that some things, like a real bank account, take time and patience.
As I turn off the light, I can hear the distant sound of a drum beat, someone practising for tomorrow's parade. The city is alive with anticipation. I close my eyes, and I'm already on the road, heading north, towards the sites where history was made. Bogotá has been good to me, but I'm ready for the next chapter. Tomorrow, the Battle of Boyacá. And then, the mountains of Santander.
I wake up before the alarm, a habit I've developed since arriving. The sky is a pale grey, and the air is cool and damp. I pack my bag, double-check my passport, my cédula receipt, my Nequi card, and my TuLlave. I grab a quick arepa with cheese from a street stall near my flat. It's about 3,000 pesos, and it's the perfect breakfast. The vendor wishes me a safe trip, and I feel a lump in my throat. This city, with its chaos and its beauty, has gotten under my skin. But the road is calling.
I take a rideshare to the Terminal de Transporte, the main bus station. The fare is about 15,000 pesos, and the driver chats with me about the holiday. He tells me that the Puente de Boyacá is a place of pilgrimage, that every Colombian should visit at least once. I buy my ticket, grab a seat on the bus, and watch the city shrink as we climb into the mountains. The Andes rise around me, green and imposing. I'm heading to the heart of the independence story. And I can't wait to tell you all about it.